Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage for Beginners: Routes, Costs and How to Plan Your O-Henro

The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage is one of the world’s great spiritual journeys: a 1,200-kilometer circuit linking 88 Buddhist temples across Japan’s fourth-largest island, each associated with the legendary Saint Kobo Daishi (known posthumously as Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism who walked these paths in the 9th century. Pilgrims — called henro — dress in white, carry a walking stick said to embody Kobo Daishi’s spirit, and travel through mountains, coastlines, river valleys, and ancient temple forests in a journey that has been made continuously for over 1,200 years.

But you don’t need to walk 1,200 kilometers or spend two months in Japan to experience the pilgrimage. This guide introduces the O-Henro for complete beginners — how it works, how long different methods take, what it costs, what to wear and bring, which temples not to miss, and how to start even if you only have a day. The pilgrimage begins in Tokushima, making it a natural complement to any Tokushima visit.

What Is the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage?

Origin and Spiritual Significance

Kobo Daishi (774–835 CE) was born in present-day Kagawa Prefecture, Shikoku, and spent formative years in prayer and meditation in the mountains and caves of the island before traveling to Tang Dynasty China to study esoteric Buddhism. Upon his return, he founded the Shingon school of Buddhism and established the temple network that forms the basis of today’s pilgrimage circuit. According to belief, Kobo Daishi never truly died but entered eternal meditation at Mount Koya in Wakayama Prefecture, and his spirit accompanies every pilgrim on the O-Henro. The walking stick each pilgrim carries is said to represent Kobo Daishi himself — hence the tradition that the stick is cleaned before it enters a building and treated with the same respect given to a living person.

The 88 temples represent the 88 defilements in Buddhist teaching that practitioners seek to overcome. The pilgrimage is also said to represent the stages of Buddhist practice, organized into four sections corresponding to Shikoku’s four prefectures. Completing the circuit, according to tradition, confers enlightenment, resolution of karmic burdens, and the fulfillment of wishes made at specific temples.

The Four Stages and Prefectures

The pilgrimage is traditionally divided into four spiritual stages, each corresponding to one of Shikoku’s four prefectures:

• Awakening (Hosshin no Dojo) — Tokushima (Temples 1–23): The pilgrimage begins at Ryozen-ji Temple in Naruto, Tokushima. The Tokushima stage is characterized by the awakening of spiritual intention and the beginning of the inner journey. The 23 temples in this section take a walking pilgrim approximately 10–12 days.
• Ascetic Training (Kuitoku no Dojo) — Kochi (Temples 24–39): Kochi is the longest prefecture section by distance, with long coastal stretches and challenging terrain. The 16 temples here, spread over a vast rural coastline, take walking henro approximately 30 days.
• Enlightenment (Bodai no Dojo) — Ehime (Temples 40–65): Ehime’s 26 temples include some of the pilgrimage’s most dramatic locations, including Iwaya-ji (Temple 45), where pilgrims must climb iron chains to reach the main hall set in a cliff face.
• Entering Nirvana (Nehan no Dojo) — Kagawa (Temples 66–88): The final section returns to Kobo Daishi’s birthplace at Zentsu-ji (Temple 75, the largest on the circuit) and concludes at Okuboji Temple (88). Most pilgrims then travel to Koyasan (Mount Koya) in Wakayama Prefecture to report their completion to Kobo Daishi.

Top Recommendations: Temples and Experiences Not to Miss

1. Ryozen-ji (Temple 1, Tokushima) — The Official Starting Point

Every O-Henro begins at Ryozen-ji in Naruto City, Tokushima. Even non-pilgrims can visit to experience the atmosphere of the pilgrimage’s starting point: the sharp smell of incense, white-robed henro bowing at the main hall, the rhythmic sound of wooden prayer beads, and the stamp office (nokyosho) where the monk stamps the first page of the pilgrim’s stamp book (nokyocho). The nearby pilgrimage goods shops sell complete starter kits including white vest, hat, walking stick, beads, and stamp book for approximately £15,000–20,000. You can take buses from Naruto Station to reach Ryozen-ji in about 15 minutes. Combining this with a visit to the Naruto Whirlpools makes for an excellent Naruto day trip from Tokushima City.

2. Tairyuji (Temple 21, Tokushima) — The Most Dramatic Tokushima Temple

Deep in the mountains of southern Tokushima, Tairyuji is reached via a ropeway that ascends through cedar forest to a mountaintop temple complex at 618 meters elevation. The complex is one of the most atmospheric in the Tokushima section, with ancient cedar trees, multiple halls, and views extending to the Pacific Ocean on clear days. The walk from the ropeway station around the temple complex takes about 30 minutes and provides genuine pilgrimage atmosphere without requiring the full walking route. Ropeway cost: approximately ¥1,200 round-trip.

3. Muroto Cape Temples (Kochi) — Where Kobo Daishi Found Enlightenment

Cape Muroto in southeastern Kochi is one of the most remote and spiritually charged locations on the entire pilgrimage. The young Kobo Daishi is said to have meditated in the sea cave here (Mikurodo) for years before his enlightenment, during which the morning star entered his mouth and became part of his being — the origin of his posthumous name Kukai, meaning ‘sea and sky.’ The temples here, particularly Hotsumisaki-ji (Temple 24) and the nearby Mikurodo cave, sit on a windswept headland where the Pacific crashes against ancient rock. It’s a genuinely powerful experience, particularly at dawn or dusk when few others are present.

4. Iwaya-ji (Temple 45, Ehime) — The Pilgrimage’s Most Vertiginous Temple

Iwaya-ji in Ehime’s mountainous interior is legendary among pilgrims for its dramatic approach: the final section to the main hall requires climbing iron chains bolted to near-vertical cliff faces, traversing narrow rock ledges, and ducking through low cave passages. The temple itself, set in a cave system at the base of an enormous overhanging cliff, feels genuinely ancient and otherworldly. Non-walking pilgrims often come specifically to experience Iwaya-ji even when touring by car or bus. Wear shoes with excellent grip and don’t attempt it in wet weather.

5. Zentsu-ji (Temple 75, Kagawa) — Kobo Daishi’s Birthplace

Zentsu-ji is the largest temple on the circuit and one of the most significant in Shingon Buddhism — it was built on the site of Kobo Daishi’s family home and is believed to be where he was born in 774 CE. The temple complex covers several hectares and includes the famous corridor beneath the main hall where pilgrims walk in complete darkness, holding a rope connected to a replica of Kobo Daishi’s statue — an experience symbolizing spiritual reliance on his guidance. The five-storied pagoda is one of the most photographed in Japan. Allow at least 2 hours for Zentsu-ji.

6. First Few Temples as a Day Trip from Tokushima or Naruto

Even if you’re not undertaking the full pilgrimage, walking the first two or three temples (Ryozen-ji, Gokuraku-ji, Konsen-ji) in Naruto provides a deeply authentic introduction to the O-Henro spirit. The temples are located within a few kilometers of each other, making the walk between them about 40 minutes total. Dress comfortably (you don’t need full pilgrim gear), bring a small coin purse for offering boxes, and follow the white-robed henro ahead of you to observe the prayer ceremony at each main hall.

Tokushima’s connection to the pilgrimage deepens the more you understand the region’s history. Our Iya Valley Guide covers the valley’s spiritual atmosphere — much of which reflects the same Shingon Buddhist influences that shaped the O-Henro.

How to Book the Shikoku Pilgrimage

Guided Bus Tours via Klook

The most practical way for most international travelers to experience the pilgrimage is via a guided bus tour. Organized tours typically run 10–14 days, covering all 88 temples with a designated pilgrim bus guide (sendatsu) and accommodation at pilgrim lodges (shukubo) or business hotels near the temples. These tours handle all logistics — you simply bring your stamp book (nokyocho) and follow the guide from temple to temple. Prices for complete 88-temple tours run approximately ¥150,000–¥250,000 per person including accommodation and most meals. For first-timers, this format is highly recommended as the guide explains the spiritual significance and protocol at each temple. Browse Shikoku pilgrimage tours on Klook →

Day tours covering the first 10–15 Tokushima temples are also available from Tokushima City, providing an accessible introduction to the O-Henro without committing to the full circuit. Find Shikoku temple day tours on Klook →

Accommodation Along the Pilgrimage

The Shikoku pilgrimage has an extraordinary network of accommodation built specifically to serve henro pilgrims. Shukubo (temple lodgings) offer the most authentic experience: sleep in a temple guesthouse, join morning prayers at 6 AM, and eat simple Buddhist vegetarian meals. Rates run approximately ¥6,500–¥9,000 per person per night including meals. Minshuku (family guesthouses) along the route provide a homey alternative at similar prices, often with the owner cooking whatever local produce is in season. Business hotels are available in larger towns near temples and are the most comfortable choice for non-walking pilgrims. Booking.com lists many options along the route. Find accommodation near the Tokushima pilgrimage temples on Booking.com →

For visitors starting the pilgrimage from Tokushima, combining temple visits with a base in Tokushima City is entirely practical for the first 5–6 temples. Find Tokushima City hotels near the pilgrimage on Booking.com →

Tips and What to Expect on the Shikoku Pilgrimage

Different Ways to Do the Pilgrimage

Walking (60–75 days): The traditional and most spiritually potent approach. Walking pilgrims cover approximately 20 km per day. Total costs including accommodation and food run approximately ¥300,000–¥500,000. This is a serious physical undertaking that requires genuine preparation. Cycling (25–35 days): A popular modern approach that allows more ground to be covered while maintaining the physical dimension of the pilgrimage. Road bikes are suitable for most of the route; some mountain sections require carrying the bike. Car (10–12 days): Allows the most flexibility and is the most practical option for families or those with limited time. Rental cars are available from all major Shikoku cities. Bus tour (10–15 days): The most accessible format, covering all 88 temples with guided support. Ideal for first-timers or older travelers. Day trips: Visiting individual sections or the first few temples on short visits — perfect for travelers already in Tokushima or Kochi.

Pilgrimage Etiquette at Each Temple

The protocol at each of the 88 temples follows a consistent pattern. At the sanmon (temple gate), bow and recite the two-line invitation prayer. Proceed to the temizuya (water purification basin) and rinse both hands. At the toro (lantern pole), light a candle and incense stick (bring your own; available at most temples for ¥100–¥200). Ring the bell once (not multiple times). At the hondo (main hall), place a coin in the offering box, leave a nousatsu name slip, hold prayer beads, and recite the Heart Sutra and specific Kobo Daishi prayer. Repeat at the daishi-do (Kobo Daishi hall). Finally, collect your temple stamp at the nokyosho stamp office (¥500 per temple). The entire procedure takes about 15–20 minutes per temple when learned properly.

What to Wear and Bring

Traditional pilgrimage attire consists of: hakui (white vest worn over regular clothing, symbolizing readiness for death), sugegasa (conical sedge hat, bearing the inscription ‘two people traveling together’ referring to Kobo Daishi’s companionship), kongozue (wooden walking stick, represents Kobo Daishi), wagesa (thin purple stole worn around the neck), and juzu (prayer beads). Complete starter kits including all of the above are available at Ryozen-ji Temple’s shop and at most pilgrimage goods stores near Temple 1 for approximately £15,000–20,000. Non-walking visitors on bus or car tours typically wear just the hakui vest and carry the prayer beads; full gear is not mandatory but adds to the experience and is respected by locals.

Best Season for the Pilgrimage

Spring (April–May): The most popular season for walking henro. Temperatures are mild, cherry blossoms line many temple approaches, and the countryside is at its most verdant. Autumn (October–November): Excellent conditions for walking and car tours, with autumn foliage framing the mountain temples spectacularly. Summer is challenging for walking pilgrims due to heat and humidity but fine for bus and car tours. Winter walking is undertaken by the most dedicated pilgrims; snow closes some mountain temples temporarily but the circuit is technically passable year-round.

For those interested in the spiritual landscape of Tokushima beyond the pilgrimage, the Iya Valley offers a complementary experience of mountain isolation and contemplation that resonates with the O-Henro spirit. And for a deeper dive into Tokushima before or after your pilgrimage sections, our Tokushima travel guide covers all the major attractions in the prefecture.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Shikoku Pilgrimage

Do I need to be Buddhist to do the Shikoku pilgrimage?

No. People of all faiths and no faith at all undertake the O-Henro every year. The pilgrimage is open to everyone regardless of religious background. Many non-Japanese and non-Buddhist henro walk the full circuit and are warmly welcomed. The protocol at each temple is straightforward to learn and doesn’t require specific religious belief — only respectful participation.

How long does the full Shikoku pilgrimage take?

Walking the full 1,200 km circuit takes most pilgrims 60–75 days. Cycling takes 25–35 days. A self-drive car tour can be done in 10–12 days. Organized bus tours run 10–15 days. Visiting individual sections on day trips from cities like Tokushima, Kochi, or Matsuyama can be incorporated into a broader Japan itinerary — just be aware that the temples are spread across Shikoku’s entire circumference.

Is it possible to do part of the pilgrimage and complete the rest later?

Yes. Known as kugiri henro (divided pilgrimage), breaking the circuit into multiple visits is accepted and common. Some pilgrims take years — even decades — to complete the full circuit in sections. Each visit to the island is considered spiritually meritorious regardless of how many temples are visited.

How much does the Shikoku pilgrimage cost?

A full walking pilgrimage (60–75 days) costs approximately ¥300,000–¥500,000 all-in, including accommodation, food, temple stamp fees (¥500 per temple = ¥44,000 for the full circuit), transport at the start/end, and equipment. Organized bus tours cost ¥150,000–¥250,000 per person including accommodation and most meals. Car tours are the most variable depending on rental car rates, accommodation choices, and fuel.

Can I hire a guide for parts of the pilgrimage?

Yes. The Tokushima Tourism Association and several private operators offer guided experiences of the first section’s temples (Temples 1–23) in Tokushima Prefecture. Having a certified sendatsu (pilgrimage guide) explain the significance of each temple, demonstrate proper prayer etiquette, and share the history of Kobo Daishi at each location transforms the experience from sightseeing into something approaching genuine pilgrimage. These guided sections run approximately £8,000–15,000 per person for a day of 5–8 temples.

What is osettai and why does it matter?

Osettai is the tradition of local residents offering free gifts to henro as a form of spiritual merit. Donations might be as small as a rice ball or a can of green tea, or as generous as a meal at a local restaurant. Receiving osettai with gratitude — bowing, accepting with both hands, saying arigatou gozaimasu — is considered proper henro behavior. You may not refuse osettai; doing so would deprive the donor of their own spiritual merit. This tradition of generosity to strangers on the road is one of the most moving aspects of the pilgrimage experience.

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• Naruto Whirlpools Guide: Best Boat Tours, Viewing Times, and Getting There
• Best Ryokan and Hotels in Tokushima: Where to Stay in Shikoku

Conclusion

The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage is not merely a tourist attraction or a physical challenge — it’s a living tradition that has given structure, meaning, and solace to millions of people over twelve centuries. Whether you walk all 1,200 kilometers over two months, cycle it in a month, tour it by bus in two weeks, or simply walk between the first two temples in Naruto on a sunny afternoon, the O-Henro will leave something in you that’s hard to name but impossible to forget.

Key Takeaways:

• The pilgrimage begins at Ryozen-ji in Naruto, Tokushima — easy to visit on a day trip from Tokushima City
• Organized bus tours (10–15 days, ¥150,000–¥250,000) are the most accessible format for international travelers
• You don’t need to be Buddhist to participate — the pilgrimage is open to all, and osettai generosity from locals is one of its greatest gifts

Ready to start your O-Henro? Browse Shikoku pilgrimage tours on Klook to find guided bus tours and day experiences, and find accommodation near the pilgrimage starting point on Booking.com.